In the 252nd episode of 40 and 20, The Watch Clicker Podcast, we discuss some of the exciting things going on in the watch world that have caught our attention.
Rolls-Royce AP Royal Oak Addition
Synchron Military Poseidon Black Edition
AnOrdain acquisition of Paulin
Other Things:
Andrew: Myth of The Zodiac Killer
Everett: Apple Pencil
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This Episode’s Sponsors:
Escapement Media: https://escapementmedia.com
Foster Watch Co: https://fosterwatches.com
Frank Affronti Photography: https://www.affrontography.com
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Intro/Outro Music: Bummin on Tremelo, by Kevin MacLeod (incompetch.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
Creativecommons.org/licenses/by.3.0/
Episode Transcript
Hello fellow watch lovers, nerds, enthusiasts or however you identify.
You're listening to the 40 and 20 The Watch Clerper podcast with your host Andrew and
my good friend Everett.
Here we talk about watches, food, drinks, life.
The other things we like Everett, how are you?
Muted, I am.
I'm doing great.
You know, the Mariners lost today.
I'm going to give weekly updates, but with notwithstanding that they had won eight in
a row before tonight.
They're the hottest team at baseball.
They are now well in the thick of the wildcard race.
Not only in the wildcard race, they are, well, as of last night, they were a game back from
the A.L. lead, which is like the first time that's happened in, I don't know, 15 years.
It's been a while, yeah.
So yeah, I'm doing really well.
Go M's and Mariners.
The M's, the M's, the M's are the G&M roles.
Nobody thinks that besides some people in Eugene.
Nature calls mountain, I feel Andrew, how are you?
I am good.
I'm a little worn out.
I'm camping for several days.
And we got back today.
So I am just a little worn out.
Yeah, camping is worn out time.
Yeah, especially with kids with like just adults.
It's really good.
Straight relaxation time.
Not so much with kids.
The benefit was what was that we went with a bunch of friends who all have similarly aged
kids.
So they kind of like the kids kind of were self managing pods, traveling up and down the
cul-de-sac and into the woods.
But it's just tiring to run herd on tired kids.
So it was beach forest camping, is that right?
Yes.
So all our four other families rented yurts.
And then we on an adjacent campground loop had an RV spot.
So we were a little bit separated, but not like a great distance away.
Enough to have some privacy, but not so far away that you weren't still in the mess.
Exactly.
No one was knocking on our door when they woke up at six o'clock, which would have been
nice because then we just would have put our kids outside.
But you know, whatever.
But it was nice.
So we're all co located.
The the year loop was this little cul-de-sac.
So we were on, you know, virtually a dead end that the kids just played in the street.
That's good.
And so you you used your your camping smoker?
Yes, I did.
Success.
Great.
You know, so night one, I I just grilled.
I just I made burgers on the grill and then made hot dogs the following day on for lunch.
I made hot dog burnt ends with cheddar, jalapeno hot dogs and turned out really good.
They didn't caramelize as much as I was hoping.
So they were closer to like little Smokies, but that was okay because they were delicious.
Little Smokies.
And then I had a second, like a meat thermometer that I use regularly at home plugged in to
a pork shoulder on the grill.
And I just do a mineral process.
I got it on the smoke.
I do a Texas crutch and wrap it in foil and just kind of out of nowhere the probe started
a malfunction in that it went from the temperature I expected the meat to be at that like 190
to suddenly it was registering at 270.
I was like, okay, I guess I'll turn the probe off because that's impossible.
Turn it back on or 290.
I was like, no, this is wrong.
I moved to the probe to 60.
And I was like, no, this is just wrong.
That's not how meat works.
I got into this weird place where I was like, maybe I should trust the probe.
So I pulled it off and I rested it and there was a probe malfunction.
So I came off probably like five degrees shy of where I want pulled pork to be.
So it was just a little bit hard, but tasted great.
But the smoker worked great, especially for just something so portable and easy.
I again, highly recommend.
And yeah, it was a good weekend.
Good shit.
Eating good food camping.
Yeah, it's like hard to beat drinking beer in a camp chair watching a smoker roll, which
is something I do in my backyard.
I just feel less guilty about doing it camping because I can't fold laundry.
Yeah, you know, I feel the same way about camping that you feel about football games.
Like I'd rather be doing this in my living room on my couch, but I do like camping.
Well, in any event, we're not talking about camping.
We have not shifted the focus of our podcast.
We are still focused on watches.
And tonight we are talking about watches rounding up some cool stuff happened in the
last week and a half.
The week in watches as we are want to do.
Yeah, Andrew, I'm sure you've got something.
Do you want to take us away?
I do want to kick us off with something that is not new, but something that I just became
aware of through a time and tide article in the way of a sea monkey aquarium watch.
Being a child of the 90s, very aware of sea monkeys had some myself.
And for those of you somehow unaware, these are a late 1950s, 1957 discovery of an animal
egg that after had been freeze dried could be reanimated.
Which made for a really great novelty toy.
However unethical, I'm not sure you could buy sea monkeys anymore.
Yeah, I don't know.
I don't know.
So sea monkeys are those of you somehow unaware are these freeze dried eggs that you put in
an aquarium.
They rehydrate you basically keep them at room temperature and these eggs incubate and hatch.
And then you get these, what kind of shrimp are they?
Brine shrimp, these brine shrimp, then awaken and live in this little aquarium habitat.
Which is weird, but they have this really great marketing that make these brine shrimp look
like horrifying creatures.
There's a television show about them with how we man with how we man Dell and over God.
Yeah, and Gilbert.
So there's this huge marketing ass behind sea monkeys in the 60s, 70s, 80s and early 90s.
There this iconic comic book, you know, mailer, get them and thing.
So this watch was a terrarium of sorts.
It's just, it's just this cheap LCD quartz with a big domed crystal that hosts your terrarium.
So you, the whole idea of this watch is that you remove the crystal and you upright it.
So you have a little bowl and you use a little syringe and you suck your sea monkeys up and
you put it into your watch and you seal it back up.
And now you've got your sea monkeys to go on your watch for up to 12 hours is the oxygen
that was available in your watch.
So this is like a horrible thing.
It's not the first wearable sea monkey habitat that has a limited lifespan available.
You know, this is the Titan for the sea monkeys that you've selected from the pool.
But I'm looking at this watch and I love it.
This is like the perfect collision of cool watch stuff, commits like Americana meets
like that comic book thing.
It's a collision of three worlds that like really is uncommon.
And I dig it.
I wish I'd had one of these at a time where it would be okay with executing shrimp by
wearing them on my wrist.
What did you look?
Can you still buy sea monkeys?
I did not look to see if you can buy sea monkeys.
So they supposedly they re-released this in 2020, 2015.
So it's interesting.
I wonder if you can still you can still buy sea monkey kits and they still bear the same
packaging.
And it appears that you can still buy sea monkey watches on eBay at all.
I'm looking at one sealed new and packaged for 400 bucks.
So cheap to get it for a steal.
So it might be something that you have to spend a little bit of money on if you want
this.
But nonetheless, well, that's a cool find.
It was an interesting article.
It was kind of troubling.
Like to just think about the things that we were okay with in the 90s.
I mean, are we not okay with this?
It's just are are we seem particularly cruel to me?
Are we though still okay with it?
We put this on a kid's wrist and then just having like dead shrimp.
I mean, I'm fucking I'm cool with it.
I mean, I don't know.
It's it's certainly it's like a weird novelty watch that I'm I'm really glad exists.
Usually I'm not.
Yeah, these seem fun.
That's what I wanted fun.
That's it.
And that's what it does for me.
Well, I have got a decidedly less.
Are you going to make it?
I just can't like I have this dry cough from having been in the Smoky Valley and then leaving
it and I like kind of cleared up and I came back and now I'm just like, got the Smokers
cough.
Yeah, you do have a Smokers cough.
So we talked about it on the show in 2019.
Pretty close to the beginning of the show when Georgia O'Gally released the S one automatic
time X watch.
I remember thinking of the time, yo, this is rad.
I remember saying something to that effect, beautiful dial, beautiful case work, just a
really pretty neat watch.
Well, time X has has now iterated on the S one with appropriately named the S two automatic
watch.
But this one's different and it's different for a couple reasons.
One, it looks different.
It also says S two.
It's got that it still has that sort of skeletonized case two piece case.
But the dial is different.
We've got it onyx black dial.
We've got some some finishing, but most notably, this is a watch that's made completely in
Switzerland.
It's a mix famously Connecticut watch brand, US US US USA.
USA USA.
We're supposed to say that.
Moved to you know, moved out of the United States really when all of the rest of the
watch business did after World War II.
So time has been on a weird journey.
And with this watch, the decision to be quote unquote Swiss made is an interesting one,
kind of a fun one.
So they've made their journey weirder.
Yeah, that's that's right.
But I think it tracks for me and in the trajectory that time X is on specifically with the galley
stuff.
Yeah, so let's talk a little bit about the watch.
So we still got a skeletonized mid case.
I think it's a little bit more pronounced.
It's a steel, I guess, injection molded mid case.
Because they say it looks single piece to me with the cut out.
It is got a titanium or a steel sort of injection molded shroud with a titanium mid case.
It is top down a very simple looking watch, elegant curved lugs.
But from the side, you get that skeletonized action.
The dial on this thing is stunning.
It's got this metal, the steel chapter rings kind of manish.
It is a bit manish.
Andrew, I don't disagree with you.
Salita movement.
38 millimeters, 50 meters of water resistance.
Yeah, Salita SW 200.
I think that this is a very kind of easy going watch on the eyes and probably on the wrist
where it is not easy going.
It is in the wallet.
So this is a thousand dollar watch.
It's a $970, $975 time X, which I think the S1 and the American documents both came
in at under 500 and people were like, yo, yo, yo, time X, what are you thinking?
I think people are going to not like the price of this.
And there are these price anchors where brands have created expectations for how much their
watches cost.
And I do think that the problem with time X trying to release a thousand dollar watch
is it's a shallow one, right?
Is this watch worth $1,000?
I don't know.
But I think in like if I'm going to stick a thousand dollars on my wrist, do I want it
to say time X when that other guy sitting down the way has a $17 time X on, is my pride
going to be able to handle that?
I think they're exploring the waters that Casio is existing in where they have $7,000
Mr. G's and $9 F91s.
Yeah, they're trying to splash around in that space and see if they can make it work.
They did that with American documents.
They did that with the first galley.
They're kind of pushing up market.
And I would think that time X isn't trying to recoup off of this watch.
I would think that based off of securing new manufacturing in Switzerland, securing new
ones.
Well, so time X owns a, it's a tellier, they have an in-house production in Switzerland.
So they're not procuring new production for this, I don't think.
This is within their existing supply chain.
But this is an up-up of their production.
This is a change.
My guess is that they're making their nut on the easy reader.
And this is going to make them money.
But this is them dabbling in that a little bit higher market space.
And you can see it in the design, right?
It's a galley design.
This is unlike any time X on the market.
Yeah.
So I think the deal is, so yes, the things you're saying are true and perhaps even obvious.
But the concern I have with this one that galley came out, it was kind of bashed for
not meeting the quality demands or when the American documents came out, the quality
wasn't there, the production wasn't there, the design probably wasn't there, not so
for the S1.
Yeah, I agree.
And I don't think the same criticisms were levied towards the S1.
But this being twice as expensive, still in the realm of very, very affordable at $1,000
in the watch world.
I do think time will tell, is this a watch that can keep up with the likes of TSO or perhaps
Longine or whoever, right?
I'm just going to take your second thousand's.
Fair or even at this price point.
We've got a rubber strap with a signed clasp.
I do not love that signed clasp.
It just says S2, it doesn't say time X and it's not a very attractive S2 in my mind.
No, the fonts.
But the watch itself interesting.
So yeah, I'd like to get my hands on these, one of these and see what it is, but in any
event, it's an interesting release.
I think there's something that we said for wearing a thousand dollar time X.
It's like dropping a V8 in your Camry, right?
You know, I think it creates a bit of a, I think it creates a bit of a irony for the
wearer.
And perhaps not a positive one.
You know, there's this appeal to wearing, you know, an inexpensive time X or a Casio or,
you know, Bill Gates, $35 sake or whatever.
There's an appeal to that.
And I think you miss some of that part of time X's appeal is that there and every man
watch this is not an every man watch.
I like that I could in a world where I can spend as much money as I want on watches where
I can wear a Marlin that costs under 50 bucks on Monday.
And this at a thousand on Tuesday.
Can you get a Marlin for under 50 bucks?
They're after 50 bucks.
Aren't I?
I think they're over.
I, well, no, I'm a 34 for a hundred.
Anyway.
Well, yeah, anyway, it's a neat watch.
It's interesting.
I think it's attractive, most important.
Oh, they're a hundred.
Yeah.
Anywhere from a hundred to 300.
What did these go up?
I think that's actually cheaper than the world what they were released at.
No, not a Marlin.
I mean, the Marlin diver.
Oh, the Casio, the, oh, is that a cat?
That is a Casio.
You're right.
I'm being a dummy.
Yeah.
Oh, a weekender for under 50 bucks.
Sure.
Sure.
You're talking about the Casio Duro.
Yeah, the Duro.
That was what was in my head as a Time X.
Yeah.
But it's not a Casio.
But I can wear a Time X for under 50 bucks.
Yeah.
I mean, weekenders are cheap and this for a thousand.
And they're notably different in every regard.
Yeah, that's right.
Andrew, what's next?
Next up for me.
Mm.
I have an interesting one.
This is another car exclusive.
And I am wondering if this is going to be a thing for the next couple of years.
Rolls Royce has just dropped a custom drop tail with an AP Royal Oak as its dashboard
clock.
But it's baller as one would expect in a Rolls Royce or Royal Oak.
So here's the thing.
This is I mean, it's a Rolls Royce, right?
They took two years designing and building out the custom collage of wooden triangles
to emulate falling rose petals.
I'm holding my heart, clutching my pearls, if you will, at this.
And I'm just going to throw it out there.
It looks like a movie theater carpet, but keep going.
It looks exactly like a movie theater carpet or for those of you familiar with the old Portland
International Airport carpet, something along those lines.
But here's what's cool.
Dead center in the dashboard.
There is a Royal Oak as the dashboard clock.
But wait, there's more.
It's a wearable Royal Oak.
You push a little button.
The watch emerges from the dashboard.
You have reach into your door panel.
You pull out your rubber bracelet.
You put it on.
And now you've got your dashboard clock to go in the way of a watch.
This is about as much of a gimmick as you could ever sell me.
And I'm down with this is like straight Batman shit.
And I'm here for it.
This is way cooler than buying 9 11.
And also you can buy a watch for $13,000.
This just comes built in with the way to wear the watch.
And you can get it all.
Oh yeah.
The whole package for the very reasonable price that nobody actually knows because if
you have to ask.
You've estimated at a cool 30 million.
That seems super reasonable for a Rolls Royce and an AP.
And you know what's like I typically like Rolls Royce body designs.
This one didn't do it for me.
But because if I'm going to buy a Rolls Royce, I'm not driving.
I'm buying it for somebody else to show for me about.
This is a car you'd have to drive.
It's two seats.
But I do like the idea of the Batmobile.
Hey, this is my watch.
I'm going to plug you in.
All right.
Now I'm going to wear you.
This might be stupid, but I have an actual criticism about this.
So it's an AP Royal Oak.
It's beautiful.
Yeah, I think just one.
This is a beautiful AP Royal Oak.
Royal Oak.
It's a chronograph.
It's a gorgeous watch.
It is the least legible.
This is the least legible watch I think I've ever seen in my life.
It's super reassured meal.
And not only is it not legible.
If you were to have it on your wrist, you can't read it from New
Driver's Seaches from your head.
There is no freaking way you could read this thing.
If you're driving a Rolls Royce, you don't care what time it is.
Yeah, that's probably true, but still.
If you drop $30 million on a car, you don't care what time it is.
Yeah, it's interesting.
This is the way for the ultra rich to get to the front of the line
to buy this watch.
Yeah.
And if you're buying a $30 million car, throw a $20,000, $30,000 watch in there.
I don't know how much of these things retail.
I don't even know what it is.
It is an out of my PK Royal Oak concept split seconds chronograph GMT.
So it is probably a superb watch.
But yeah.
Okay.
It's beautifully integrated.
Watch the animation of how it emerges.
This watch is just like Beauty and the Beast rose emerging from the vase.
This watch is very Richard meal-ish.
It's huge.
It's a big watch.
We have to be able to read it on the dashboard.
43 by 17 for.
So the watch only 150 pieces were made in its debut year.
It's actually a $150,000 watch.
So you're getting the steel.
You get a Rolls Royce thrown in roughly, I don't know.
My math is not going to be fast enough, but like a small fraction of the price of the
car.
So it's a thrower.
This is like, this is like the hat that you buy at the dealership.
It's just like that.
Okay.
I have a new car.
You're not going to throw in a hat.
No, it's $25.
Yeah.
Okay.
I'll buy a Toyota hat.
Go further.
Cool, man.
Cool.
I mean, it's a beautiful whole design.
I think it's super cool.
You know, we often also butts.
So when we do these episodes, we just pick our links and then we send them to each other
independently.
We have a lot of overlap.
Almost complete overlap between our picks this week.
So I'm just going to grab one.
I'm not going to worry about what you're doing next.
I am going to grab on to a watch that is interesting, but that I don't think I like.
Yama.
Okay.
The old French Yama is releasing a lot of watches, I feel like.
Yeah, they're like banging them out.
You know, they have the urban field, the urban traveler, the Superman 500.
This all come out the.
But they were they announced this week, the Sue Marine collection and I'm like the French
sous chef, Sue, Sue, S O U S. And gosh, okay.
What is this?
This is a sort of vintage style as Yama does vintage style dive watch.
I think that this is going to be something that people are going to like, right?
It's got us some vintage 70s style on the dial, but it also feels like a modern watch.
Okay.
So what is what's the skinny on this thing?
It's got a great size 40.5 on the diameter, 12, too thick, 300 meters of water resistance.
It is a well specked watch.
It comes on either a rubber strap.
I think it's an FK on rubber strap, which is attractive with a fitted end link, not just
a fitted end, a curved rubber strap or a or a Jubilee bracelet.
It's a dive watch.
It's a 40, 40 meter dive watches or a 40 millimeter dive watch.
It's got a not an attractive bezel.
I believe it's an aluminum bezel.
It's got a not unattractive sort of layered dial.
It comes in five colors, I think.
Yes.
It's got an in house, yellow, my caliber.
So yeah, yellow, green, orange, black, blue.
Those are pretty straightforward, simple colors.
Matching rubber, if you want.
Yeah, that's right.
With tone matching rubber.
I think that these are going to be, what, under $1,000.
They're right about 1,000 pound.
$90 with bracelet, $90 on rubber.
Yeah, okay.
I think it's kind of ugly.
I hate the bezel.
I think it's kind of ugly.
I don't even hate the bezel.
I don't know.
I hate the print on the bezel.
So here's like, I'm all about bezel markers.
They can make it or break it for me.
Here's the issue I take with this bezel.
It's not my opinion solely.
I'm not just the asshole here.
They don't.
It's not a 10, 20, 30, 40, 50.
It's 10, 20, 40, 50.
10, 20, 30, 40, 50.
But they have the ones and the 10s column separated by a vertical.
Marker.
So it reads 110, 210, 310, 410, 510.
For no reason.
And they're like, curning issues.
At least they're not these photographs that I'm looking at.
Yeah.
These, this, the bummer.
I think that this is a design miss.
Yeah.
Because the rest of it, if they had, if they had just a dive timer or just minute markers
on the bezel.
I think I'm, I think I'm here for it in the way of a boring $1,000 dive watch.
But the bezel ruined it for me.
Yeah.
And, and you know, people are going to buy these and people are going to like them.
It's got, it's a great spec to watch for a great price.
Yama makes good shit.
It's got a cool movement.
It's a 28.
It's a high beat movement.
Um, it, you know, 300 meters of water resistance.
It should be.
I don't want to shit on anybody.
Some of them I look at this and say, Oh, I like it.
And it's not objectively bad, but subjectively for me, I'm like, but this looks like a, I
feel like they could have done a lot better with a little, with not even anywhere ever.
Yeah.
It, it, yeah.
So anyway, there's something about it that I do not love.
Um, I just wish it looked better.
Come on, Yama.
That's subjective, right?
But, um, it's disappointing to me.
They could do better because the color matching's great.
I think there's some kerning issues on the, on the bezel too.
Uh, and maybe some kerning issues on the dial.
I don't know, man.
This is, it's a weird, this is a weird thing.
I don't know.
I, I always kind of struggled to take Yama super seriously.
Yeah.
Cause they do shit like this.
Yeah.
They, they feel like somewhere between a, a brand like Spinnaker, which is not.
To, you know, speak ill of Spinnaker.
This looks like a Spinnaker.
That's what it looks like.
Yeah.
They, they, they toe that line between Spinnaker and, you know, say, Sarah.
Right.
Who does, who does like interesting cool shit and they do it well.
Yeah.
For way less.
Yeah.
And it's like Yama is doing interesting cool shit poorly.
Certainly less.
Yeah.
Andrew, what's next?
Mm.
Another brand that is intriguing to me.
We have a new synchron military.
Why is synchron in a intriguing brand?
Do you?
I don't know.
Yeah.
That's something to do with like, you know, the history of the, the people responsible
for it.
Yeah.
Sure.
Yeah.
It was just not a big deal.
Uh, so they've released the Poseidon black edition.
Um, of the movie.
The military diver of the military diver.
So imagine a Doxa 300 with kind of a scuba dude dial and you've got the watch with an
FKM strap and I'm kind of digging it.
It's straight seventies feel.
It's all the familiarity of another brand with all the kind of like, Iyer that exists
behind synchron.
I'm digging it.
I think it's a really cool release and it's just like this great middle finger.
I think any synchron purchases just like this awesome middle finger to no one for any reason.
It's just like angry for the sake of angry.
Yeah.
No, I'm sorry guys.
I'm sorry.
I don't have to do.
Uh, this is an interesting watch.
It's got this, um, it's got this logo, this Poseidon logo on it that feels to me like
it's, I mean, this is an Aqua logo, right?
Like, yeah, you know, there's a lot of stuff going on here.
We talked about Rick Moret in the Jenny family and they're falling out and the, you know,
synchron being sort of a part of this controversy.
It's an unabashed middle finger to Doxa, kind of a non-controversy.
And this is cool.
I mean, it's a cool watch.
Objectively cool watch, I really like what Rick's done with the branding.
Um, you know, I hate to say it, but it does feel like, you know, it, it does feel a little
bit like sour grapes to me.
I'm the white dial one is baller.
So these are the, the synchron military, right?
With that kind of checkered dial, but in lieu of the checkered dial, you expect the black
dial is just straight black.
The white dial is white with some black checaring around the inside of the hour markers.
Yeah.
Kind of Doxa army checkering and a synchron military.
That's what I meant.
And between at the 20, 20 to 25, there is the black and yellow Poseidon with a whale.
These are dope yellow strap on these things, like black strap available.
They're just cool.
They're also pre-order thousand bucks delivery in October.
Limited edition of a thousand pieces.
Yeah, these are neat.
These are neat.
I didn't find the water.
What's the water resistance?
I will say having handled 300 meters, both a, both a synchron military and the Doxa army.
There's, there's really not that close in terms of quality.
The, I suspect that this is probably fine quality, especially for what you're paying for it.
But I do think it is a case of if you want the real thing, you should get the real thing.
Yeah.
But these are cool.
I think it's cool release.
I like the logoing, which is, I mean, and, and I had a, a window of opportunity for a,
both a Doxa army and a synchron military and passed on both for a reason.
Yeah.
Yeah.
Rick's doing a good job.
That synchron branding is good.
Rick's doing a good job with fonts, I think.
And you know, his pad printing, I think.
That's excellent.
The fonts and design are great.
It's just, there's some finishing to catch up on.
I'm going to talk about Perrin for a second.
Perrin?
Perrin?
Perrin?
I'm going to say Perrin.
Perrin, which is a sort of a young Swiss brand that's making accessible watches has
released quite a few watches in the last couple of years.
I think Perrin does very interesting stuff with turning the way they, the, the knurling
and the textures on their metal in particular is always super interesting to me.
They use a nice blend of brushed, blasted and polished finishes and this watch in directionality
of their finishing.
That's right.
And this watch is no exception.
The last week, Perrin introduced sort of the last couple of days is going first right
about these.
The Regia automatic 39.
Unsurprisingly, this is a 39 millimeter.
It's a dive watch is what it is.
And it comes in two iterations, one with, but it's also not one with a sort of dive looking
bezel and the other with a countdown or a 12 hour and like a, like a dual time.
60 minute and 12 hour bezel, a split bezel.
These both have kind of stylized lozenge markers, lozenge, don markers.
As Perrin does, they're very, the aesthetic is very stark, white and black.
They've got very simple handsets all in white.
These are exactly what you would expect from Perrin in terms of dial design.
But the bezel on these things, holy cow, the bezel on these things is really cool.
It's sort of a coin edge, but then has another set of concentric circles above that.
It's got fantastic coin edge on the bezel or on the crown with, with also like a turn.
It's just texture.
The texture on this watch is great.
All of that added, all of that on a kind of brushed finish with a high polished ribbon
chamfer.
Then the super high angle, low angle, no super high angle, ribbon and also no sharp edges
on the watch at all.
Yes.
Like what in the world?
This is such a contrasting set of design stuff and it works really well.
You'd think with this level of contrast, it is just a very high contrast watch.
You'd think with that level of contrast, it would be awkward or abrupt and it's not.
It winds up being very smooth and elegant even though it is contrast, contrast, contrast.
I think that those ribbon chamfers are going to push light off and make it feel small.
Yes, I think you're right.
So it's going to look small, but the legibility because of all the light that that crown is
catching is going to be phenomenal.
So this is a 200 meter watch.
It is 39 by 45, which is very wearable.
It is 12, eight, which is a bit thick, especially considering the S lab sided to, especially
considering it's got a 201 in it.
An SW is solida SW 201.
I think that they're probably just, this is the watch, they're not worrying about making
it slim because I think they could have made this watch slimmer if they wanted to.
I'm guessing they didn't care to.
No bracelet from what I can tell.
It just has a vulcanized FK.
Oh no, it says FK unvulcanized rubber strap.
Also available with optional steel bracelet or strap.
Yeah, this is a terrific watch and the price is not bad on this thing.
So preorder, I think it's like 700 for watch only for Swiss francs.
So like 850.
Okay.
Okay.
And retail price expected at what then 1100?
Yeah, 963 francs.
Here's the thing and this is going to be controversial.
Oh, the bracelet is terrific.
It's a 12 o'clock date window.
It's a little part hole date window and that's going to rub some people the wrong way.
Yeah, FK.
You can barely see it.
It's a it's a great.
Color matched, great execution, no extra lume around it.
It's just, hey, here's the date.
Yeah.
If you're not looking for a date window like assholes like us, you're going to miss it.
No price increase for stainless as far as I can do or for the bracelet is from what I
can tell, which is odd.
3,300 per model.
Yeah.
And the model being a stainless it is 80 additional franks or 80, 87 additional franks
for steel.
And it's a good looking bracelet.
Yeah, this is an interesting watch from an interesting brand.
I mean, I like this even though it's thicker.
I like this.
You like them thick in the peri.
Oh, a whole bunch more than the Yima Sumerine.
Yeah.
Concur.
Yes, is it a tractive watch?
An attractive Swiss watch.
I gotta talk about something.
Do it.
A door dang did a thing this week.
And they made an acquisition of Paulin.
Paulin was a brand that I was unfamiliar with.
I saw this thing and I was like, oh, what's what are they?
What are they buying?
I look at Paulin and I was like, oh, duh, you buy this brand.
This is the fun version of an ordained.
This is a super cool acquisition.
And I'm really excited to see how an ordains kind of philosophy flows through pollen watches
because their stuff is cool.
Yeah.
It's accessible and ordained.
It's that same kind of color feel.
It's super similar design language.
Like it makes sense.
A lot of watch brand acquisitions.
I'm like, well, duh, you're going to make, you're going to buy that because it's going
to make you a buck a lot of money.
This it's like, oh, we're going to buy that because it's going to be fun.
And I'm really excited for it.
There's a couple of things about this story when I read it that I noted.
One is that an ordained in pollen have worked together the past, which I knew.
The second is that one of the founders of an ordained Lewis Heath is married to a woman
named Charlotte pollen who just so happens to be the founder of pollen watches.
A company that's 10 years older than an ordained by the way.
So there is some relationship behind this transaction.
It doesn't seem like it.
There's some brand history.
There's a historical brand relationship here and probably other types of relationships
as well.
So that to say, this makes sense for a whole bunch of reasons.
I think Andrew, you're totally right.
That aesthetically and design wise, this makes a ton of sense.
And it also just sociologically makes sense.
In doing so, they've relaunched with a new watch called the pollen modal, I think maybe
modal model, which is a 35 millimeter steel sports watch.
I'm going to call this a sports watch.
That looks terrific.
I like this a lot.
It's not quite H case, but a tono-cast sport watch with a very pollen aesthetic.
It comes in interesting options, Andrew.
One, you can get it with a Les Jupre D100.
Great.
Great.
Yes, please.
Or the second option is you can get it with a new old stock at a quartz movement.
And the Etta quartz is 500.
The D100 is 995.
In either event, you get a display case back, which is freaking rad.
I love display quartz.
And it's a good looking movement, right?
It's one of the blue board brass Etta quartz movement.
So it's an attractive quartz movement.
Is it?
It looks better than most automatic or mechanical movements.
That's right.
That's right.
Yeah, shit.
This is terrific.
It's fun.
And it's affordable.
And it's good.
Yes.
And it's good.
I think these are probably going to be really hard to get.
Yeah.
But not for long because they're going to be upping their production.
This is an interesting chapter.
Like, I'm interested to see what United Kingdom watchmaking does in the next several
years because there's such momentum behind it.
And, you know, with the, what is, what is this?
Is it called the British watchmaking kind of collaborative event?
I know what you're talking about.
We talked about it with Mike France.
They're really pushing British watchmaking.
British watchmaking is doing some cool stuff.
We see this merger with Ann O'Dane and Pauline.
Christopher Ward is doing really cool stuff.
You know, we've got a studio underdog.
We've got numerous UK based watchmakers who are pushing the envelope and there's some
cool stuff happening and I'm excited for it.
Yeah.
So, there are, it appears to me that these are all available now.
I think it's probably model.
I said modal.
I think it's probably model.
They've got the model A, model B, model A is a yellow, model B is brown, model C is
quartz and they said these are B would be brown.
They should call them model two.
That's a missed opportunity.
And it says these are shipping on September 8th.
So it looks to me like these are all still available.
So if you want one, go to pongwatches.com and get your order in.
Because these are cool.
Yeah.
Free shipping orders outside the UK will be subject to customs and taxes according to
the destination country.
Yeah.
These are cool.
35 million.
And your shit will get hung up in customs.
I just read an article that the customs seized like $3 million in counterfeit watches in,
I don't know, somewhere on the East Coast.
I'm not where you'd expect on the East Coast.
It was like Atlanta or something.
And it made me think about some like brands that I'm aware of who have had their shit
seized as counterfeit.
I was like, well, hang on a second.
You're counting these numbers into your, you know, your forfeitures.
That shit wasn't counterfeit.
That brand bought it.
They designed it.
They purchased it.
They paid for the manufacturing.
They then have it sent here so they can assemble it.
And customs is like, no, brah.
That's counterfeit.
Like who for who?
It's counterfeit.
What?
It says my brand on it.
So maybe it should be a compliment for some of these brands who are getting their stuff
seized by customs as counterfeit.
Did this happen recently?
What are you talking about?
Are you talking about a historical event?
It was in the last two years that one of the brands that we know and love had a bunch
of stuff hung up and seized by customs.
Sounds vaguely familiar.
Yeah.
Andrew, what's next?
Well, I just talked about my thing.
Oh, that was your thing?
I thought that was my thing.
No, I talked about that thing.
We both did, but I talked about it first.
So you have now two to choose from.
I'm going to talk about Grand Seiko.
Yeah, you are.
Grand Seiko 44 GS, the Grand Seiko.
The 44 GS is the Grand Seiko, right?
Yeah, I think so.
Right.
It's the one.
It's the watch that I associate most with Grand Seiko, Grammar Design.
I know it's not the Grammar Design watch, but it's the one I associate most with Grammar
Design.
Seiko has introduced three brands.
So I think a couple of years ago, there was the 55th anniversary of Grand Seiko.
And so they were 44 GS, 44 GS.
They've introduced three new 44 GS models with a spring drive movement.
And they're all lovely.
They are all lovely, black, green and red.
They've got these beautiful Seiko dials, a red Starburst, kind of a modeled green, and
also a sandy black.
I'm going to call it a charcoal.
You've got gold accents.
And they're calling these the Katana models, which, you know, you know, Grand Seiko does
the thing, right?
We're evocative of X, Y, or Z, you know, fog on a lake in the morning, blah, blah, blah.
These are supposed to be after your first sip of coffee.
Right.
That's right.
I think it's T.
Tomahagani.
These are evocative of Katana steel, Tomahagani, Tamahagani and whatever.
I don't know.
But that's a what I'd call Damascus Katana steel, right, which is high carbon and lower
carbon steels smashed together in layers.
This isn't a Damascus watch though, which is interesting based on that.
Evocation.
Yeah.
In any event, it is.
It's a 44 GS guys.
Look, it's it is what it is.
Zoratsu polished.
I think the coolest thing about this is a lot of people don't like a power reserve.
I don't care one way or the other, but you've got this lovely gold power reserve at 730
kind of inside the dial and these gold accents that are like fluted and and oh, the way
I'm looking for is like comes to a point almost like a fan stroke.
Sure.
Sure.
That's yeah.
The higher the thing gets bigger.
You've got fantastic gold accents, stainless polished polished silver, dolphin hands and
this great gold seconds hand and GS logo.
These are great.
I mean, we don't talk about every new grandseco release because they seem to be a ton of
them.
Yeah.
And they're very iterative, but we both pinged on this because gosh, these is something
about these are pretty cool.
Yeah, these are gorgeous.
So red limited edition 6000 green and black are non limited 5600.
So this is well outside of the range of watches that we're talking about.
Well, and the red is also the the most unique texturing on the dial.
It is a unique texture.
So the green and black have kind of a sandpaper texturing.
The red has very much the same kind of chrysanthemum pedaling texture throughout the dial.
Okay, I like that.
I don't, I don't object.
They just did a chrysanthemum release, but it was kingseco.
So you can tell they're still working hand in hand.
But it's it's gorgeous dial finishing, maybe like a strawberry.
Yeah, these are cool.
These, I mean, I think I like the black the most.
This red is the first on SNK red that I've ever seen that I was like, hmm, I could do
that.
And then I saw the price tag and I was like, yeah, I won't do that.
I like, you know, having a family.
So with this watch living in my one bedroom apartment, I wouldn't be too terribly unhappy.
Hey, you could have this watch in the one bedroom apartment.
There'd be questions, but whatever.
What's next?
Last up for me.
Jonathan Ferrer of brew watches.
Our man of brew watches has done a brew metric automatic with an NH 35, which is a no date.
It's the brew metric, right?
This is a super cool watch.
Everything that he does has these really obvious inspirations that are beautifully incorporated
into unique design.
You see like every time you look at one of his watches, you're like, Oh, I see that.
Oh, that's where he got that idea.
But he it's none of its eight.
Right?
I mean, I don't see nothing I've ever seen of his has been like, Oh, well, I'm not.
That's pretty close to this.
And this I see like Porsche, like Porsche or Fina kind of design and like 70s racing watch.
This isn't a chronograph, but I still see and feel all of that.
He's dropped in NH 35 in these.
So you've got a no date in your brew metric.
525 for these.
Yeah.
And so hold on.
Before you move on.
You put an NH 35 in this and I thought, well, any 35, this thing's going to be chunky.
No, 36 by 41, which is deceptive.
Those numbers are deceptive because it's square.
This watch is probably even where 38 to 40 ish.
10.75.
Yeah, he shaved down.
So it's a time only brew metric that's I think thinner or just as thin as the chronograph
with a mecca quartz with an NH 35 for 575.
Mm hmm.
Simie up, yo.
Only 50 meters of water resistance.
And next time I see him, I'll talk to him about that.
So these are limited to 500 pieces.
I think, well, but I think it has to be limited.
Otherwise he gets too chunky.
Yeah, they're available.
They're available now.
As we say this, I don't know how long that's going to last.
Yeah, this is a terrific watch.
And I love the brew metric.
Yeah.
I love everything he's done.
Even his weird stuff at the beginning.
Yeah, I think he hit his stride at some point.
I think he started off a little awkward, which most people should do.
Yeah.
So this is exactly the same thickness as the brew metric with the mecca quartz.
Mm hmm.
This is dope.
Was it cool release from him?
I'm glad he did it.
So just quickly.
It is a time only dial.
It is a busy dial for being a three-hander with no date.
Yeah, that's right.
And this is a very 70s brew design.
Great fonts.
This is his standard font work.
You've got the coffee bean logo.
It's terrific, attractive, busy without being annoying.
Mm hmm.
I dig it.
I think it lacks a little bit of the charm of the metric chronograph.
It does, but it's because it's a three-hand veteran.
I mean, you don't get some of those things.
Andrew, we did it.
We talked about all the things.
Nothing else interesting in watches happened this last week.
Not even kind of other things.
What do you got?
Ooh, I have a new show that is kind of airing actively.
There's two episodes available right now on Peacock.
I'm sorry.
You and your Peacock show.
It's called Myth of the Zodiac Killer.
And it is kind of based on the research of a fella named Horan Horan.
Oh, what's his first name?
Dad, I don't know.
I'm looking for it.
Oh, shoot.
It doesn't matter.
You'll see it when you watch.
So he is a professor who studied English and then got into linguistics and was intrigued
by the Zodiac Killer's letters.
And he used all this AI technology to analyze the Zodiac letters and through his expertise
and the AI analytics and hiring some outside analytics firms has made the determination that
the Zodiac Killer is not, which is fascinating.
Because the Zodiac Killer is one of the, if not the most famous serial killer in the
world, the unsolved serial killer.
Right.
Unsolved, like just nothing.
And the reason, you know, according to him, is that there is no Zodiac Killer.
There was certainly a serial killer in the beginning.
And then there were a bucket of copycats who used this lather of the Zodiac Killer fear
to obscure their own killings.
Interesting.
So the first two episodes he's highlighting the first handful of Zodiac murders and offering
alternative, non-alternative facts, offering alternative perspectives on why these murders
occurred, postulating on other postulating.
Yeah, that's the right word.
Other suspects, who would maybe be more appropriate than a random murderer.
It's fascinating, right?
It's kind of in that near to realm of conspiracy theory, but it's reasonable enough, given how
absurd the idea of the Zodiac Killer is, that you're like, okay, I can kind of get with
this, because the idea of the Zodiac Killer was like, here's the boogie man, and he's
gone.
Yeah, yeah.
And it's not like GSK, it's not like BTK, it's not like any of the other serial killers
who have exactly the same MO, like everything's the same.
You see some evolution, but generally speaking, we see the same thing.
And then ultimately, this person is caught.
We don't see that with the Zodiac.
Right.
And it's an interesting position on why it's fascinating.
I love these like cold case turnips and these re-examinations of things, because they're
fascinating because I like puzzles a lot.
And this is a cool solution to a puzzle that has otherwise been without any kind of resolution.
It's interesting.
So you said it's two episodes in.
It's two episodes in.
There's more forthcoming.
I don't know how the writer strike is affecting it.
Or if...
Well, if reenactors go, they shouldn't be affecting it.
No, they're both strike.
Oh, okay.
Yeah, SAG and the writer struck first and the SAG was like, us two, which is reasonable,
because you should make more than 18 cents for having been a lead credit on Cloud9 from
streaming.
It's just, that's reasonable.
I've got another thing.
Do me.
This is going to be a funny one because a lot of you are going to be like, what are you
talking about?
Like it's 2023.
Did you just ask over KY?
I did.
The warming one.
I bought this last week both an iPad and an Apple Pencil.
Okay.
Now you have my attention.
Apple Pencil and pen pineapple, pineapple pen.
What?
The song, I have a pen, I have a pineapple, pen pineapple, pineapple pen.
Just like that.
I'll be linking that in the show notes.
I bought an iPad and I've used an iPad before.
I know what an iPad is.
I've used a tablet.
This is not a thing that I'm wholly unfamiliar with.
But I did buy an iPad.
I bought an M1 chip iPad.
First, holy cow, that thing is incredibly powerful and they have even more powerful ones.
I was shocked at how quick and snappy and responsive this thing is.
But the reason I bought this was for work.
I've been doing a lot of depositions and in-depositions.
You have to have paper and you're shuffling.
I noticed someone in a deposition recently taking notes with an Apple Pencil and an iPad
and it looked just really easy and seamless.
I saw the way they were just going through documents and shuffling things and I thought,
well, I've got a briefcase full of stuff and they've got an iPad and they're just doing
all the things that I've got all this paper and they're just doing it on their iPad.
It looks really convenient and really smart and way more professional than you just...
Yeah, actually, I'm not sure about that piece.
I'll come back to that because I have a point about that.
I saw a dude do it on his phone one time and that made me want to throw a shoe at him.
So I bit the bullet.
I went about the iPad.
I went about the pencil.
It wasn't that much money.
I can't remember what I spent.
But it was well within my electronics budget for work.
And I've been using this thing to take notes on.
I downloaded, I spent some money on a good note-taking app, which I might talk about in
another other things.
But I've just been using this thing for work.
I've been using it as a second computer to pull up documents on to view sometimes.
But more importantly, I've been using it to take all my notes with.
And I am stunned to scan your handwriting because your handwriting is unique.
It can.
I'm stunned by how easy this thing was.
I'm certainly not a Luddick.
I have a certain amount of technical proficiency.
But I'm not the most bleeding edge guy.
I think this is one of those situations where not being bleeding edge has probably been
a nice thing.
I bought this thing and there's these apps and the device is all so mature that all I
had to do was open this thing up, download the app.
Yeah, ecosystem when it's developed.
And I'm like, yes, this does exact the workflows are set up in a sensible way where I'm just
like I'm immediately taking within the first 20 minutes.
I pull this thing up, I download the app, I tinker with it for about three minutes.
I get a call and I'm like, well, let's try it.
Pull up my iPad, start taking notes, finish up my call, export this thing to a PDF.
It automatically uploads.
I just click share or export.
It automatically pulls.
Excuse me, I got your funk.
It pulls up the app that I need to put this thing, my file management app, pulls it up,
sends it to the place I want it in a word functionality so you can like search and find
and edit and stuff.
It doesn't really matter because it's just notes.
So normally what I would do is I would add a yellow piece of paper, write this and then
I'd go give it to my assistant, she'd go to the scanner, she'd scan it to her.
Are you going to layer off now?
I'm going to layer off now.
I already did it.
No, I'm not laying her off.
But it was just like I finished the notes.
She's on the block.
I put them on Clio and I was done.
You did put it on Clio.
And this was within, you know, have owned this thing for less than an hour.
And I was like, well, shit.
All right.
I've been using this thing for work.
I've probably spent at this point 10 hours using this thing professionally and I'm like,
dude, this is, this is the shit.
Meanwhile, my daughter also has an iPad and she loves it.
And she said, well, dad, now that you have an iPad and Apple pencil, you've got to get
me an Apple pencil and we can do art together.
And I was like, okay, that sounds cool.
And so we go get, she's got an older iPad.
So we had to go get her the older iPad, Apple pencil.
And she like sets up this set of three lessons for us to do my daughter, my 11 year old daughter
attracts sets up the set of three lessons for us to do.
We take these three individual art lessons.
They're like YouTube tutorials, basically.
But you need to pay for them.
And no, I guess we did have to pay for the third one.
And we like make this really cool art, like just those are really cool.
Yeah.
Over the course of the weekend, like we're making digital art and it's like legitimate
art.
I mean, it's not our art where you're making someone else's art, but it's like, holy shit,
this is cool.
And I'm like, how did I not do this before?
So my other thing for the week, I think is the Apple pencil generation two.
That's what I chose was the Apple pencil.
Because the other one's just an iPad and that's everybody has.
I know you all have iPad.
I'm sorry.
I don't have an iPad.
Terrific.
I'm so happy with this purchase.
And it also brought me to another thing.
So two things.
One, I think you talked about season two of the bear as another thing.
Watch that with Kim last week.
Watch the whole, my bear was a whole other thing, both seasons.
Do so good.
The other thing I did was I downloaded Civilization 6, also one of your other things.
No, Civilization, the game, Rome Total War was one of my things.
Well, I thought it was Civilization.
Someone, I saw something that said, if you have a new iPad, you should check out Civilization
if you've never played it.
So I downloaded Civilization, which I'd never played before.
And it's like, how many hours are you building while you play Civilization 6?
None.
Not as many as you play Civilization.
No, I don't play it that much.
Anyway, other thing, Apple pencil, really cool.
I dig it.
Your art was super cool.
Maybe we'll put in the show notes.
We probably won't.
I don't know how to do that.
Andrew, anything else you want to add before we go?
Mad of things, man.
Hey, you guys.
Thanks for joining us for this episode of 4D
and watching the podcast.
Do me a favor to check us out online, watchclicker.com.
That's our website.
And that's where we put every single episode of this podcast and articles, reviews, weekly
watch stuff.
You can also check us out on the socials in particular Instagram at WatchClicker or at 40and20.
Don't go to the old 40 and 20, it's fake.
If you want to support us and we hope you do, patreon.com slash 40 and 20.
That's where we get all the money to keep the wheels on this wagon.
And don't forget to tune back in next Thursday for another hour of watches, food, drinks,
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Bye-bye.
Bye-bye.
Bye-bye.
Bye-bye.
Bye-bye.
the day.
Bye-bye.