An affordable GMT Diver with an independently moving hour hand has been something I have been lusting after for the better part of a decade. I have scoured the forums and chats looking for options, the exceedingly rare examples of the Halios Seaforth GMT, Doxa 750t GMT, Seiko Scubamaster Kinetic GMT, and even pining after a 90s model of the Omega Seamaster GMT once. All of the above is what I wanted. Maybe they were close; the Halios is exceptional, but only about 100 were made. The Doxa is still in my collection, but that watch is 44.3mm in diameter! Not to mention the overwhelming majority were “caller” GMTs, meaning you can only independently operate the 24hr hand.
The Hydra is a 41mm, 200m diver outfitted with the all-new Miyota 9075 GMT movement. The Miyota 9075 was launched last year, and we are just starting to see it trickle out to independents. You may remember Will covering the Jack Mason Strat-O-Timer with this movement a few months back. The 9075 is one of the first affordable GMT movements to offer an independently adjustable hour hand while letting Lorier come in at $599. What separates the Lorier is the 24hr track on the exterior portion of the dial. The 24hrs provides your second-time zone while leaving the rotating bezel for what matters, diving… or timing a pizza.
We’ll go over the details of this watch, and I’ll give you my thoughts on the design, along with any improvements I’d like made.
On the Wrist
Pictured above is the most oversized watch Lorier has ever made on my 7.25″ wrist, and I’m not sure how you could describe it as any less-than-perfect. Stop here for anyone reading this review to find out if the watch is too large or thick. It’s perfect. Don’t overthink this; the sizing is just what it is supposed to be. Please don’t believe me. Let’s look at more images on my wrist. The female end links along for the perfect amount of curl around the wrist, and the chamfers on the case let the watch melt into your wrist.
Even from a side profile, the watch wears beautifully due to the case design, which we will discuss later. The widest part of the case is several millimeters more extensive than the portion of the caseback that is in contact with your wrist. Like significant vintage cases, the narrower section in touch with your wrist allows you to be comfortable when flexing your wrist.
The bracelet has three micro holes that allowed me to get a perfect fit, and the sizing was easy with the provided screwdriver.
I was not concerned with the dimensions before receiving the watch, and after wearing it nonstop for a week, I am only emboldened that the size is fantastic. Hesalite is a love-or-hate topic; I am OK with the added thickness because of the acrylic’s warmth to the dial. Any scratches, you can always buff out with the included polywatch should you not enjoy the wear-and-tear look.
Lorier Hydra SIII Specs | |
Case Width 41mm | Lug-to-Lug 46mm |
Case Thickness 12.2mm | Lug Width 20mm |
Water Resistance 200m | Strap Bracelet |
Crystal Acrylic | Lume Super-LumiNova BGW9 & C1 |
Movement Miyota 9075 | Price $599 |
Dial Details
Looking at the Lorier, you are met with a deep blue that pairs beautifully with the elevated white indices. Between the Hesalite and movement, you have seven layers from the top second hand to the date wheel at 6. Having multiple levels of depth in their dial allows the tiny time-telling portion to seem balanced by what else is happening.
Viewing from any angle other than straight on, there is heave distortion due to the acrylic that further accentuates this. While on the wrist, the left-hand side of the 24hr scale is almost entirely obscured by this distortion, making using the GMT hand (if you haven’t memorized the positions) quite tricky. Using the second time zone is not impossible, though, and it’s not the focal purpose of the watch. For me, this trade-off is well worth it.
The depth in the dial is never more apparent than when you check the lume. The central hands, bezel, and internal indices are all ablaze with BGW9 Surer-LumiNova blue lume. The 24hr hand and outside 24hr track are lit using C1 green lume. I’d like to see these reversed so the diving portion of the lume would match my vision for that sickly green vintage diver. It would also fit my vintage SUUNTO pressure gauge. The two colors could stand to be slightly more distinguished from each other, but they glow bright, and the overall effect is beautiful.
The hour, minute, and second hands are all treated with a matching brushed finish that I have seen on several Lorier and noted when reviewing the Neptune a few years ago. This rough brushing may not fit with the more elevated modern-styled design of the Hydra. Although the vintage design inspiration is all over this watch, this is their most contemporary release yet, and a different handset may have matched this aesthetic better.
Case & Bracelet
At 12.2mm thick and 14.6mm thick wrist to crystal, you just knew Lorier would pull out all the stops in their case design, and they did not disappoint. The short lug-to-lug length of 46mm is paired with curved down lugs and sharp chamfers on top reminiscent of vintage Omega cases.
The side profile is easily my favorite of any Lorier yet. Seeing a small brand like Lorier put out a thoughtful case design in the same year, we see the likes of Tudor put out a GMT with a slab-sided that would make even Tommy Caldwell scoff makes me happy.
Bravo to Lorier; more brands should follow their lead and look towards beautiful vintage cases for inspiration in their modern designs.
From the Neptune review I wrote, the bracelet on the Hydra is a noticeable improvement. The tolerances at the end links are much improved, and the bracelet is more comfortable. The clasp is the same short push button release clasp they have used for a few years and keeps with their vintage feel bracelet. I would like to see Lorier continue to iterate on their bracelet, the steady improvement is excellent, but I can’t help but think this is the watch’s prime weak point. All that said, this watch would be perfect for virtually any strap. I am moving, so no additional straps were tried to get this review out quickly but check out my Instagram in the coming weeks to see some other photos with examples.
Final Thoughts
So after having the Hydra for a week, will I reach for one? As stated, this has been a dream watch of mine for the last six years. The owners of Monta will attest to me cold calling them in 2018 before having anything to do with photography or Watch Clicker to beg for an Oceanking GMT. Yes, I would gladly reach for one, especially at $599. I am about to foot a $600 service bill for my Doxa 750t GMT, and I don’t know what that watch does better than the Hydra SIII.
Diver GMTs hold a special place for me, and as far as I am concerned, the Hydra is the best yet. You can travel anywhere in the world with this watch and not be concerned. The GMT hand will be tucked away for you if you ever need it, but in the meantime, you can focus on getting underwater. The few areas Lorier could improve upon may not be reasonable at their market price. I would like to see them charge more and up the quality of their bracelet and bezel action. Sign me up to see what Lorier could do at $1,000. In the meantime, I will be grateful for them putting out the watch of my dreams at a price point of true entry-level enthusiasts.
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