A common joke is shared among metropolises worldwide, including Toronto: Everything in Toronto is an hour away from Toronto. I had heard a similar saying from those who hail from Los Angeles, Cairo, Bucharest, and Paris. I had time to think as I made my way to Humbertown’s event, where IWC would present their timepieces while giving collectors a brief two-hour watchmaking course.
As I sat in my car, inching toward the venue, one encounter popped into my mind and resonated for the entire evening. Many years ago, I was having drinks with a good friend who is an accomplished watchmaker. I attribute our eye sockets being dehydrated from the whiskey, for we both emitted an audible eye roll. We could almost hear our eyeballs roll within their eye sockets like granite orbs rubbing up on a stone cavity. We stood cornered and listened to a self-proclaimed collector say they would retire soon and work as a watchmaker without formal training.
Until that point, my experience with watchmaking was limited. This was due to seeing talented watchmakers work in their workshops and knowing how painstakingly exact their work was. Years of training, good eyesight, natural patience, and incredibly steady hands are needed to work in this field. None of these were characteristics that the person in front of us had. Over the years, I have always been more than happy to pay for a professional watchmaker to service or diagnose an issue with any of my watches. The idea of having a novice attempt to do such a thing still to this day makes my eyes roll.
As I arrived at the venue, it became clear that we were in good hands, for the watchmaker teaching the course is a legend here in Canada. His name is Ashton Tracy, and for years, the most dedicated collectors have been turning to him to care for their most treasured timepieces. For several years, Mr. Tracy has also taught watchmaking through the Horological Society of New York. As we all sat down behind the IWC Calibre 98200, everyone immediately settled in and listened carefully to Mr. Tracy’s calming voice as he guided us through the class.
Throughout the evening, the pacing of the course was perfect, as Mr. Tracy made space for incredibly intelligent questions. Every facet of the class related directly to the watch movement in front of us. The brief history lesson spoke to the relevant parts and how they came to be. I was fortunate to be the only member of the media present, and I was taken aback at the mental acuity and sharpness of the collectors present. As insightful questions and calming side conversations while working away gently filled the room, it quickly became apparent that these collectors were all here to learn. And learn we all did.
IWC was the perfect co-host for the evening. Unlike other brands primarily known for their sports watches, IWC is known for its movements. IWC’s Kurt Klaus made it a point to make all the functions of these complicated watches operational from the crown. His brilliance negated the need for pushers, which introduced additional failure points. IWC is primarily known for its perpetual and eternal calendar complications, which, again, unlike other brands, are not only reserved for their dress watches.
The 98200 movement was chosen because of its larger size, which at 37.8mm makes it easier for us laypeople to work on. But no matter how large the movement is, certain aspects of watchmaking elevate it past what we mere mortal civilians can accomplish. After ten minutes, I started to see hands move with an almost imperceptible degree of uncertainty as handling delicate and small parts took its toll. Parts do not “snap” together in watch movements like Lego. They must be placed with extreme care before the next part is installed. If done incorrectly, the movement can become damaged or scratched.
When we had finished disassembling and assembling the movement, everyone looked up with admiration. Some people, like the person I mentioned at the beginning of this article, cannot understand what is truly required to be a serviceable watchmaker. As every collector present placed their loupe on the table, they did not have aspirations or delusions about becoming a watchmaker. They looked at Mr. Tracy and every watchmaker they had met in the past with a greater appreciation and respect for their incredible work.
Watchmaking is not an easy job. Physically, one is hunched over, albeit supported by pads on an elevated workstation, for many hours. I have heard watchmakers confide in me about their shared repetitive strain injuries to their neck, shoulders, and forearms. My friends, who are dentists and dental hygienists, also suffer from similar work-related injuries. Then, there is the aspect of working on an incredibly complex and treasured timepiece and the pressure that comes with that.
Watchmakers like Mr. Tracy should be heralded for their work as watchmakers and educators. Up until that evening, my experience with watches with their casebacks exposed was limited, and I do not see that ever changing. I am eternally grateful to those who decided to pursue a career in watchmaking and to keep all of the hearts of our beloved timepieces beating.
We at the Watch Clicker would like to thank Dan Tecimer, Vivien Huynh, Theren Wang of Humbertown Jewellers, and Benjamin Dechartres IWC for making the memorable night possible.
You can follow Ashton Tracy here on Instagram at @precision_horology. At the time of writing, you can find his work here and, soon, on his new site here. If you are interested in taking one of the courses offered by the Horological Society of New York, you can look into signing up for one of their courses here.
