This past November, I had the opportunity to attend Nodus Intersect and even put together a vlog for them; you can check it out on the Nodus YouTube Channel (Ben makes an appearance at 5:26). During the show, I had the pleasure of meeting Ben, the founder of Imperial Watch Co. Ben was displaying a sample of his now sold-out Imperial Royalguard 200 at the show, the watch we have in for review today. The Royalguard 200 is a $450 38mm dive watch with faux aged lume and a polished bracelet that would make anyone who has lusted after a 90s Oyster Prince Sub drool.
On the Wrist
On my wrist, the 38mm is directly in that sweet spot for me. The watch is small and understated while still being loud from the polishing. As prices for the Oyster Prince have skyrocketed in recent years, an affordable option that is not just an homage is well appreciated.
The Royalguard is right at home with a field outfit, but the slight watch was also perfect for a warm-weather vacation. I had the privilege to take this watch on a dive trip that didn’t go as planned. But the watch still came along for the ride. I can confirm that the watch didn’t leak and performed as advertised.
I found wearing it on a Barton Elite Silicone during the dive trip was my favorite combination. On rubber, the watch is significantly lighter and plays to the strength of this being a smaller watch. The short Lug-to-Lug of 47mm makes this a strap monster.
Imperial Royalguard 200 Specs | |
Case Width 38mm | Lug-to-Lug 47mm |
Lug Width 20mm | Thickness 14mm |
Water Resistance 200m | Strap Bracelet |
Crystal Sapphire | Lume Yes |
Movement Seiko NH35 | Price $450 |
Dial Details
Underneath the domed sapphire crystal is faux lumed markers paired with gilded hands. The minute hand ends in a massive pointer that obscures every marker when passing.
The Imperial Watch Co. logo at 12 is my favorite logo of any brand’s first release. Time and time again, a poorly done logo spoils a freshman release from smaller brands. That is not the case here.
Imperial has executed the bezel pip exceptionally, my favorite feature on the watch. I wish more brands would follow suit and add pips like this. The only fault in the pip is the slight difference in color between the lume here and on the hands/dial.
The aged Swiss lume is a sickly green that I enjoy. Some may not like the yellow markers and aged lume, but it’s all personal preference. The lume is well-applied and bright. I would like to see it match the pip better or have a more prominent color difference.
Case, Movement, Misc
The clasp is a standard flooding clasp stamped with a branded lock. $500 watches are quickly becoming the $300 watches of a few years ago, and it is hard for me to critique the clasp too much because of this. With an upgraded clasp, Imperial would have likely bumped the watch into the next price bracket.
The polished crown has the Imperial logo and is a screw-down for your peace of mind. When used to operate the Seiko NH35 movement within, you will notice a phantom date position.
My example is the no-date (which I prefer), but since launch, Imperial has come out with date options featuring the same movement. At $450, I would have liked to see them choose the Miyota 9039 others have used at this price point. The 9039 is a no-date movement and is 1.42mm thinner than the NH35. That brings us to my most significant sticking point.
At 14mm thick, the Royalguard 200 is chunky. Some of that is the bubbled crystal, but the date movement is not helping. The watch’s modest diameter makes the thickness more apparent on the wrist and feels akin to a cube.
With the date option, the tradeoff feels more worth it, and it is easy to play armchair watch designer. I’m sure there are other reasons to go with the NH35, but from a buyer’s perspective, I would have preferred the thinner no, date version.
Final Thoughts
True to the modder roots, the Royalguard is a watch many people have been clamoring for. A correctly sized diver fills a gap that the big brands need to remember about (at least within the budget-friendly option). Watches like the modern Black Bay 58 have come close, but I still think there is a place for a sub $1,000 version of this type of diver.
Areas I would like to see improved or altered in future iterations would be the thickness mentioned above and lume. Additionally, I would like an option with regular white markers for those turned off by this style of markers. I would be fine paying a little more for an upgraded bracelet and clasp, but I understand the choice. Currently, two models of this watch are in stock; both are no-date options.
Check out more dive watch reviews at The Watch Clicker here
Check out the Imperial website here
