For those unfamiliar with the French brand Baltic, it is easy to walk away from their website and Instagram page with a couple of impressions. First, they are a brand that focuses on classic designs often found on very expensive watches. Second, their prices are attainable for most who reside in the middle class. Third, the brand seems to have deep pockets when it comes to marketing. I missed all of the excitement surrounding the MR01 when it was released, so these impressions were the first ones I encountered when I started researching the brand. However, my impression of this watch was further impacted by that of collectors. Many collectors whom I know personally own an MR01. They are all drawn to its classic styling and apparent quality. In reality, not all these reasons prove to be positive, and we shall get into them throughout this review.
On Wrist and Overall Experience
The Baltic MR01 offers a classically designed watch that wears well in formal situations without drawing too much attention to itself. The supplied blue strap offers a subdued presence, making it a perfect option for most outfits. It equally wears well with jeans, a business suit, or an outfit for a cocktail party where most people dress to impress. Nearly measuring 36mm in diameter, the MR01 is best suited for wrists under seven inches. With this in mind, the supplied strap does require additional sizing holes for the wrists that suit it best. The watch looks decidedly vintage on larger wrists and does not draw too much attention to itself. Two additional strap colors are offered, brown and green, and two bracelet options, a beads of rice, and a flat link. The MR01 looks handsome on all of them and is also offered with two additional dial colors, blue and silver.
The strap is comfortable and handsome, with only one hint as to the watch’s cost-cutting efforts. The underside has the slightest variances in the application of the adhesive material used. In this example and the two others I had seen, this was not serious enough to cause any discomfort or result in premature degradation of the strap. The stitching is tight and even, and the flat end of the non-buckled strap gives the wearer more confidence when sizing the watch. The buckle is brushed and simple, with the brand name etched and easily legible.
The MR01 aims to bring design cues and an experience usually reserved for watches that start in the five-figure mark in terms of asking price. That begins with the micro-rotor Hangzhou movement. When placed on a table with its exhibition caseback facing upwards, it would be easy to mistake this watch for something special. The micro-rotor movement has been popularized by the use of movements supplied by Vaucher for independent brands and even for established brands such as Hermes. These watches, which Baltic aspires to emulate, range anywhere from $10,000-$25,000 and up, depending on the alloy used for the case. Though this choice of movement undoubtedly succeeds in Baltic’s goal, it does somewhat fall apart when looked at closely.
Baltic MR01 Specs | |
Case Width 35.8mm | Lug-to-Lug 44mm |
Case Thickness 9.9mm | Lug Width 20mm |
Water Resistance 30m | Strap Leather Strap |
Crystal Hesalite | Lume No |
Movement Hangzhou CAL5000a | Price $595 |
Case and Movement Details
When held at the length of an outstretched arm, the calibre 5000a movement from Hangzhou is beautiful. It should be noted that the movement in this specific example seemed to be running anywhere from +10 to -20 seconds a day. The micro-rotor allows for an unimpeded view of the escapement and running gears and the various levels of finishes on the plates. Upon looking closer, one’s expectations should be tempered based on the price point. Some screws are roughly finished, and as pictured here, this surface right on top of the rotor is so poorly finished that it resembles the roof panel of a car with a twisted chassis. Everywhere else, the machine finishing is subtle and well-executed. The guilloche patterns are uneven, but they are not offensive in the slightest. The manner in which the movement is framed and how it is contrasted with the rest of the watch is the second most significant accomplishment of the MR01.
The brushed finish of the watch’s underside perfectly frames the exhibition caseback and highlights the underlying mission of the MR01. That brings entry-level haute horologie design at a price point below $1000. The brushing itself is rather flat and not special in itself, but it is in the case’s overall execution that it shines.
The side of the case continues in its flat brushing, only to be met with a polished bezel and polished lugs. Under a loupe, the transitions from the brushed rear of the case to the polished lugs are uniform. The polished surfaces which face you as you’re looking at the dial has to be one of the best uses of a polished surface that I have seen on a watch at this price point in years.
The case’s flat and polished elements draw your eyes to the polished leaf hour and minute hands and the beautifully cut and polished Breguet numerals. The hands and numerals continually dance in the changing light as one’s wrist moves while the case and bezel remain as a solid frame. This intelligently designed theme extends to the dial and works wonders for those who gaze upon this watch.
Dial Details
From the inside of the dial working outwards, the textured finishing offers the contrast needed to make the aforementioned numerals and hands attract the owner’s attention with their beauty. The sub-seconds dial is asymmetrically placed between the 7 and 8 positions. It is lightly finished with concentric circles before mirroring the outer edge of the entire dial with its seconds track. This circular finish subdues any reflecting light and adds a welcomed warmth to the viewing experience. The dial has a raised and smooth minute track before giving away the same textured treatment as the center of the dial. The level of detail Baltic focused on where it ultimately matters has resulted in this timepiece being such a success amongst collectors and enthusiasts.
Final Thoughts
Baltic should be applauded for their release of the MR01. They have not only succeeded in bringing the many design cues associated with entry-level haute horologie and independent watchmaking to the middle class, but their effectiveness in making this happen should be the focus of watch collectors and enthusiasts. For most watch companies that have products in the price range of $10-$10,000 rely on multi-national manufacturing to make their products. Established Swiss, German, and Japanese mass-luxury brands rely on factories abroad for cases, dials, and ceramics. The French company Baltic does not hide this. It has expertly shown with the MR01 how to leverage the available manufacturing prowess from China, with a careful level of quality control that prioritizes the product’s specific mission.
Those looking to purchase a mechanical timepiece with the design language of a $20,000 Breguet for under $1000 should be happy with the Baltic MR01. There is not a single element of the MR01 that could be said to be original or innovative, but that is not the mission of this watch or its prospective consumers. It is a beautiful watch that has proven to make many collectors happy, and it may do the same for you.
Check out more dress watch reviews at The Watch Clicker here
Check out the Baltic website here
