For Arcus, it is good big or go home. The Canada-based independent has stepped up almost every aspect of their design algorithm to bring us a minimalistic yet beautiful rendition of a sports watch. The Arcus Exos Traveler isn’t a GMT, as the name might suggest. There is more going on under the hood of the Exos, and we’re going to dig into every bit of it. Let’s jump into what I hope isn’t Arcus’ swan song, the Exos.
On the Wrist
When I received the review sample and put it on, the first thing I said was, “this case is perfect.” It has appealing dimensions on paper at 39mm wide, 46.5mm lug-to-lug, and only 10.5mm thick. These proportions translate wonderfully to the wrist as the case design features steps and curves in all the right places. While the case doesn’t necessarily need to avoid any slab-sidedness, the perceived height of the watch is damn near non-existent.
I’m sure you’ve got this point in the review and are already asking, “this watch is called a traveler’s watch. Why?” Arcus’ bread and butter is taking off-the-shelf movements and modifying them in-house to do something unique. In the case of the Exos, they took a Sellita SW-330, ditched the GMT hand, and modified it so the main hour hand features a jumping hour complication. This isn’t something you see at this price point, and the most notable watch that features this type of jumping hour is the Omega Aqua Terra. The idea here is that you arrive in your new time zone, pop out the crown, adjust the hour hand, and get on with your travels. I dig it, and the lack of a date means no swinging the hour hand around until you get to the correct date (especially if you don’t wear it for a few days).
The Exos is about as sporty as you can get while also being as minimal as you can get without erasing everything off the dial. I’ll touch on some of the dial elements later, but the ring that encircles the dial is interrupted with stylized breaks corresponding to each hour. I won’t lie and say this is the most straightforward watch to read, but it doesn’t make you question your sanity. The hands extend far enough that you can tell the time with a slightly longer glance than any other dress watch you’ve worn. You’re golden as long as someone isn’t asking you if it’s 10:12 or 10:13.
Arcus Exos Traveler Specs | |
Case Width 39mm | Lug-to-Lug 46.5mm |
Case Thickness 10.5mm | Wrist-to-Crystal 8mm |
Lug Width 20mm | Weight 120g |
Water Resistance 50m | Strap Leather Strap |
Crystal Sapphire | Lume No |
Movement Sellita SW-330 (modified) | Price $1,250 |
Dial Details
More is happening with the Exos than just a purple sunburst dial with minimalist markers. The dial is made of grade 2 titanium and sanded down, which gives it the circular sunburst effect. The color is achieved by anodizing the dial plate.
If you’re unfamiliar with anodizing, it is a finishing process which uses electrical currents through the material being anodized (in this case, titanium), which manipulates the oxide layer, creating the color you see. Long story short, the titanium is immersed in a solution that interacts with an electrical current. A specific colour will be achieved depending on the solution and time immersed in it. Anodizing has many purposes, one of the most common being visual identification for parts in aerospace and healthcare. In the case of the Exos, we get a vibrant purple dial.
The ring that makes up the hour markers is carefully applied and sanded down so each part of the ring lines up with the one adjacent to it. What is fascinating about this is that there are a million ways this can go wrong, and you end up with a ring that is all wonky. Arcus executed it to perfection.
The handset isn’t the most exciting part of the watch, but they aren’t off-the-shelf either. The minute and hour hand come to a point that looks almost surgical. The entire dial setup feels modern, cutting edge, and precisely what you want to see from a brand machining and modifying its parts.
Case & Movement
The Exos’ case is one of the most pleasing cases I’ve encountered in a long time. It feels a lot like the Christopher Ward Lightcatcher case if that case had been squared off just a little bit more than it is. The case is slim and sleek, with brushing and polishing in all the right places to create illusions of being slimmer than its 10.5mm case height would suggest. Granted, 10.5mm isn’t thick by any standard, but you’ve nailed it when you can make something look and feel like 8mm as a case designer.
Starting from the top down, a thin polished bezel surrounds the dial. The polishing on the bezel balances the brushed texture on the dial and keeps the Exos from looking too utilitarian. The bezel sits a hair inside the midcase, which is polished on the top and brushed on the sides. There is a crisp transition from the top of the case to the sides; no chamfer here.
Visible through the exhibition caseback is the modified Sellita SW330. As mentioned before, this is in-house modified by Arcus, and they playfully call it the AW330. When I reviewed the Mesos (review here) last year, I lamented that watch enthusiasts seem unappreciative of small innovations and modifications like Arcus makes to their watches. Given that the Mesos never made it to production, it still feels like that is the case (no pun intended). With the Mesos, I put my money where my mouth was and ordered one. The difference with the Exos is that these are all being made as we speak. If you order one and appreciate this innovation, you will get your watch.
Final Thoughts
The question I asked myself when writing this review was, “Would I travel with this watch?” While this watch isn’t specifically for traveling, the added jump hour complication implies it. The short answer is yes. When I travel to different time zones, I either don’t care what my home time zone is (traveling with family) or can do quick mental math to figure out my home time. I don’t need a GMT, and this is who I feel this watch is targeted towards.
Someone who wants a functional, stay-out-of-my-way watch would be thrilled with the Exos. It has all of the flair and talking points a business traveler might want, and that perfectly carries over the general watch enthusiast. This is a cool watch made by a cool brand owner who does cool things. When you get a watch that looks fantastic on top of it all, you’ve won the watch lottery.
Check out more Arcus reviews at The Watch Clicker here
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