When it came time to book his business trip, one detail gave him pause. He was traveling to London, and a couple of factors were at play that directly impacted which watch he would wear. First, this trip would coincide with the initial peak of the pandemic’s cost of living crisis. As a result, those wearing recognizable luxury watches had become targets for robberies in England’s capital. Second, his work would have him constantly going from one boardroom into a pub and back to another boardroom and then back into a series of pubs. He had no control over where he would go and would not be able to forecast where he would be and when.
Looking down at his wrist, this presented a problem. Omega and Swatch had just released the MoonSwatch. In his native city of Toronto, many strangers had attempted small talk with him about his Omega Aqua Terra, citing their interest in Omega because of that release. He was uncomfortable wearing his Omega abroad in such a climate, but he still wanted to wear something that would make him smile whenever he looked down at his wrist. He also needed to wear a watch that would match the rest of his business and formal attire for the groups of people he would be meeting and traveling with a notice such things.
Enter the Longines Heritage Classic with the Sector Dial. Upon seeing it on the Longines website, it was love at first sight. The watch’s branding and design did not inform the public that he was wearing half a year’s car payments on his wrist. The details and overall design of this watch suited his needs perfectly. Fast forward to a couple of years later, and we now present to you, dear reader, the comprehensive long-term review of this beautiful timepiece.
On Wrist
Before becoming a mid-tier luxury brand under the corporate Swatch Group umbrella, founded in 1832, Longines had long held a strong foothold in the luxury marketplace alongside its now Swatch Group corporate stablemate, Omega. However, it finds itself snuggled between and slightly above darling brands such as Hamilton and Rado while under the aforementioned brand Omega. As a result, their offerings may become overlooked by many casual consumers and enthusiasts.
Longines has one benefit that some brands placed below it do not. Longines’ extensive and historical catalog is filled with appealing and breathtaking designs to this day, and the Heritage Collection aims to leverage this.
The Sector Dial under review here is based on a design from 1934. In this period, these dials were worn by professionals such as scientists, those who worked on the railway, and anyone else who needed a legible and versatile watch. The crosshair design on the dial and simple hands resulted in a highly legible timepiece that was also austere enough to be worn comfortably in settings that may be unexpectedly formal. True sector dial timepieces were professional instruments that could accompany professionals across all their endeavors, as they still do today.
This translates directly eighty years later when this professional, the owner of this very watch you see here, was looking for a timepiece that would be easy to read, easy on the eyes, and versatile enough to be accepted during high-leveraged budget meetings without attracting too much attention in various pubs. Lastly, it also has enough substance to help assuage any boredom during the prolonged downtime during his travels.
Opting for the deliciously soft brown leather strap instead of the bracelet, this Longines accomplished its task of being a tactful chameleon. We will discuss this strap in its section later. Coupled with the entirely brushed and modern-sized case, never did a glance from a stranger last a second too long while on his wrist or mine during the lengthy review period. Mission accomplished.
Sliding in and out below dress shirt cuffs with ease, the Sector’s eleven-millimeter thickness never announced its presence to the wearer unless it was called upon. Even with my extended time with the watch, this Longines took a considerate and diplomatic step away from my wardrobe’s frontline. This watch comfortably becomes a part of one’s setting on stage and never announces itself as a leading character. This can be an issue when meeting with people you have never met and want your character and work to stand on their own.
There have been countless times in my experience, and that of the owner of this watch, when a timepiece became a distraction from across the room. Watch brands and those selling a lifestyle to men like to draw attention to a man’s watch being a statement piece. They say that a man’s only route to express himself and his personality is through his watch. This, of course, is not true. The cut of your suit, clothes, and, most importantly, how you carry yourself will show people who you are. A luxury watch is immediately identifiable with a price tag. This can prove tone-deaf or detrimental in many professional settings if you do not read the room beforehand.
In 2023, “stealth wealth” gained traction as the public became fascinated with the series Succession. They started to notice how some public figures decided to choose attire that was of good quality but was intentionally discreet. Within the world of watches, the first place most turn toward is the vintage market, and you guessed it, they overlook vintage Omegas and Rolexes and focus their hunt toward vintage pieces from Longines.
In both our experiences and that of a friend of mine who is a family physician, the modern offerings from Longines have quietly occupied the space of stealth wealth for professionals who prefer to be discreet about their income level and its use. The Heritage Series by Longines not only brings the desired vintage designs to the table, but they do so with assured water resistance, a warranty, and the peace of mind that you are not wearing an appreciable asset on your wrist. My time with this Longines only reinforced this.
Longines Heritage Classic Sector Specs | |
Case Width 38.5mm | Lug-to-Lug 46.5mm |
Case Thickness 11mm | Lug Width 19mm |
Water Resistance 30m | Strap Leather Strap or Bracelet |
Crystal Sapphire | Lume No |
Movement Longines L893 | Price $2,550 |
The Dial
The dial is what makes this watch special and what makes it perform as well as it does in any given environment. Offered with the black/grey dial seen here or with the silver/white dial and blue accented hands, both options provide a versatile watch that will never be out of place, save for a jujitsu mat or during a safety stop.
Along with the highly legible sector motif of the dial, the polished hands result in this watch being legible in all but the darkest environments. The hour hand perfectly meets the polished outer chapter. This polished section is home to the classic and austere typeface of twelve, three, nine, and six – we shall visit the last numeral mentioned shortly. The minute hand graciously moves across the inner section, which is decidedly darker, and onto the polished landscape. Its tip crosses the printed and shortened minutes markers precisely by half. This watch is a masterclass in proportions, resulting in a pleasing and calming experience.
The six o’clock marker is cut off by the sub-seconds subdial. Those desperate to have an opinion to express on this watch usually point to this being the only thing they do not like. We will discuss how not doing this would result in a dial that may look off and barren.
The sector dial of this Longines comprises various elements that are superimposed onto each other. These elements reinforce the design with added weight, depth, and substance. At its base, we have the darker central region, which also occupies the furthest outer ring. Here, the tasteful Longines text logo is placed along with the sector crosshair. The polished section, which houses all printed indices and markers, is placed atop. The sub-seconds subdial purposefully cuts through these sections dramatically. This is not an afterthought but done on purpose.
This section sits slightly below the other surfaces. Its bold outer printing features a fine circular guilloche surface, resulting in a solidity that anchors the entire dial with an unmistakable clout. This is missed by those who only experience the Longines Sector through a screen and not in person. The second markers are presented in a railroad design, with the five and ten second intervals being featured more prominently. This mirrors the polished section perfectly and creates a sense of harmony. Lastly, the small seconds hand features a beautifully vintage-inspired circular counterweight. The perfectly muted movement beats away at 25,200 beats per minute, and this seconds hand offers the wearer a peaceful feature to stare at.
Considering all these design elements, the cut-off six marker fills the dial perfectly. Without it, it would leave a gaping space and break the design’s theme of superimposed landscapes and elements. This sector dial is complete and perfectly balanced, and like its original reference back in 1934, it is a masterpiece in simple yet effective design.
The Case
Where one may look at the brushed case of this Longines and say that it is uninspired, it is, in fact, purposeful. The overall mission of this watch, being classic and understated, is reinforced by the case. The case is divided into three sections: the top, which meets the boxed crystal; the midcase, which follows the lines from the horned lugs; and the caseback.
The underside of the case, however, is polished. This includes the underside of the lugs and the caseback. This gives the timepiece an air of jewelry, but only for the owner – again, discretion being the mission objective here. The downside is that the caseback easily gains scratches and small pits. It should be noted that this particular timepiece has not lived a hard life. Whenever this watch was not on the owner’s wrist, it was in a soft watch pouch. This can, over time, detract from the beautiful hourglass logo, which sits below the laser-engraved EFC. These three letters stand for Ernest Francillon & Compagnie. Francillon was given charge of Longines by his uncle and the company’s founder, Auguste Agassiz. Mr. Francillon is honored as such, for he did much to modernize and pave the path forward for Longines’s tremendous success over the next century.
The boxed crystal invokes the 1934 reference and adds more than a millimeter to the overall thickness. Thankfully, the underside of the crystal has a healthy amount of anti-reflective coating so that the polished hands and portions of the dial do not reflect light in too many directions before the rays meet your eyes.
The only criticism that I genuinely have about the watch is this crystal. When viewed from the side, it is completely opaque. Modern manufacturing has long made it possible to make domed or boxed sapphire crystals that can come close to mimicking the transparent and distorted appearance of an acrylic crystal when viewed from the side. This would add to the overall cost of the timepiece. Yet, others I know who are owners of modern Longines in this price range would happily pay an additional ten to fifteen percent of the asking retail price for such a modern boxed and transparent sapphire crystal.
Something that armchair observers like to complain about is the nineteen-millimetre lug width. This complaint is founded on such lug widths not allowing them to use their existing array of straps for this watch. First, changing the lug width to eighteen or twenty millimeters would compromise the perfect 2:1 case-to-lug-width ratio and result in a naturally less appealing watch to the owner’s eyes. Second, nineteen-millimetre straps have been readily available on all market levels and at all price points. If buying a few additional straps is too much of a financial burden for the consumer, they should look at their finances and reconsider making such a stretch purchase for a luxury timepiece.
The lugs themselves may look simple when observed from above. However, from their sides, the hooked/horned shape calls to mind the ornate cases that Longines became famous for decades ago. These small details go a long way towards wearability and overall ambiance imparted by the watch. The result is a case that tapers towards your wrist, making it a cohesive part of your ensemble and you.
The Movement
Operating the Longines is an exercise in mechanical joy. One’s experience with the movement starts with their fingertips as they rotate the crown to wind the watch and when they pull it out to set the time. At both of these, the Longines excels, and its polished, signed crown does the majority of the heavy lifting when it comes to experiencing this watch.
The winding mechanism is extremely smooth and tactile, giving the owner soft audible clues as to its mechanical underpinnings as the ticks correspond with the pleasing sensation through one’s fingertips. When the crown is extended, the substantial stem provides maximum reassurance regarding the security and level of care Longines took with this timepiece. This is something that many brands often overlook, and regardless of how secure a wobbly crown may be, they do not inspire confidence. When someone spends thousands of dollars on a watch, a well-executed crown, as seen here, will go a long way toward the timepiece being worn more often.
Some may view the signed crown as a little crowded with the winged-hourglass logo and the Longines typeface encircling the top hemisphere. The logo itself may very well have been enough, but the tops of the wings of the hourglass do make for a solid foundation for the typeface.
Based on the ETA A31.501, the Longines Calibre L893 offers a silicon hairspring, which will lessen the chances of the watch becoming magnetized. This significant feature led to this watch being purchased by its owner. Going through various scanners at airports and handling many laptops supplied by his company had resulted in magnetized timepieces in years past. In practice, its seventy-two-hour power reserve was leaned upon as it lay dormant during some weekends. Nearly two years later, the watch runs roughly accurate to + 5 seconds a day. Lastly, the rotor for the automatic movement is smooth and never broadcasts itself as it works away.
The Strap
Articles such as these usually advise consumers to buy the watch with the bracelet and buy the strap later. This is due to there being some cost savings in buying the watch with the bracelet rather than separately. In the case of this watch, the owner never likes to wear his watches with a bracelet, so this brown strap was the obvious choice. Leather, rubber, and textile straps from most lower to mid-tier luxury brands from Swatch Group rarely disappoint, and this strap proves itself to be a wonderful offering.
The leather on the top and underside of this brown strap is very soft and of outstanding quality. After handling them, I would also purchase the black and light blue strap, which are available with the silver dial model. These straps are that good. Another reason to own all straps and the bracelet is that their hardware is exemplary. The buckle on all straps features the winged hourglass logo and is carefully contoured from all angles. This buckle falls into place on the pad of one’s thumb and feels just as sturdy as the robust casework. These small details reverberate with the owner, making this a timepiece that one keeps for a lifetime and wears as often as possible.
The dual stitching, which appears near the top of each piece, is stitched well and has shown no signs of wear. Longines opted to add more character stitching to the tip of the strap without the buckle, which rounds out the experience of this meticulously crafted piece of leatherwork. Though soft like the rest of the strap, the keepers are sturdy and never showed any signs of cracking or losing shape.
Final Thoughts
If you have made it to this point in the review, you know this watch made a highly impactful impression. Longines has made a stout timepiece perfect for consumers who want finer things while practicing the utmost discretion. The only change I would like to see implemented, perhaps in a mid-cycle refresh for the watch, is a boxed/domed sapphire crystal that is clear and not completely opaque when viewed from the side. Besides that, the Sector by Longines is a beautifully executed watch with an attention to detail that makes its asking price well worth it. One cannot always say this about luxury watches in this price range. This watch is easy to recommend, for it will serve its first owner and their children well when ready for it to be passed along.
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