Note: The sample unit we were given was not representative of the production model. As such, we are limiting photographs of the sample unit, for it would be unfair to the ones you can purchase. Production model units were referenced and compared for the writing of this article.
As Swatch Group’s sole American brand, Hamilton is entrusted to lift much weight within the corporate portfolio. First, it represents mechanical and quartz field watches inspired by their military past. Hamilton has accomplished this so successfully that I wrote an entire article here. Second, the various design languages associated with that of the States are on full display across a vast model lineup. This is done through their Khaki dive watches, Khaki aviation watches, their more formal timepieces within the Broadway, Jazzmaster, and, of course, the aptly named American Classic lines.
Today, we are looking at the recently released Open Heart Automatics within the Jazzmaster lineup.
On the Wrist
The standout characteristic of this open-heart timepiece is not the dial but the Art Deco case. Its exquisitely detailed and horned lugs are masterfully crafted, instantly enhancing the watch’s wearability. The downward slope of the lugs embraces your wrist, creating an illusion of a thinner watch than its actual 11.05mm thickness.
At 40mm, this is not a small or overly elegant dress watch but one that calls back to the mid-century toughness that the greatest generation was known for. Its varied surface treatments made it a reliable dress watch that elevated every casual outfit.
Its skeletonized dial will be a magnet for your eyes as you move through life. There is no mistaking this watch for anything other than a high-quality mechanical one. If anything, this Jazzmaster celebrates the mechanical watch by putting its movement in the starring role through the dial.
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart H32675170 Specs | |
Case Width 40mm | Lug-to-Lug 50mm |
Case Thickness 11.05mm | Lug Width 20mm |
Water Resistance 50m | Strap Bracelet |
Crystal Sapphire | Lume No |
Movement Hamilton H-10 | Price $1,095 |
Dial Details
Before we get carried away with the finishing of the movement, which is visible from the top of the dial, let’s focus on what is new for 2024 – that fume red dial. In mirroring the Art Deco case design, the new Jazzmaster utilizes the color burgundy, which was popularized in the use of fabrics from the 1910s to the 1950s in luxury hotels. To this day, older hotels have kept this color scheme in an attempt always to recall their history. This new dial color makes sense and feels like a natural fit. During my month with this watch, I felt like I was wearing history from the bebop era to just after the Second World War.
An open-hearted dial could spell disaster for legibility, but Hamilton’s use of high-polished elements negates such concerns. The sharp and highly polished Dauphine hands include Super LumiNova, ensuring legibility even in the darkest environments. The seconds hand’s counterweight helps your eye when viewing the watch quickly as the seconds hand tip moves over the exposed areas of the dial. All of this comes together with the polished indices. If there is any light in your environment, you will not have trouble telling the time for these polished surfaces to convey the necessary information.
The H10 movement is wonderfully finished, with a Perlage visible through the dial’s cutouts. The rear of the movement, visible through the sapphire crystal exhibition caseback, features a uniform brushed finish. Further enriching the viewing experience are the gold-colored elements of the movement, which perfectly contrast the burgundy dial. The beating heart of the balance spring is mesmerizing to watch. It also offers a calming experience that one would typically have to raise the watch to their ears to listen to.
Case and Bracelet
We already mentioned the watch’s contoured lugs and how they define the timepiece’s character. Such lugs were more common in decades past, and to be honest, it is very disappointing not to see more ornate lugs on the market. From this perspective, it suddenly becomes apparent that this Hamilton is, in fact, the spiritual successor to the Omega DeVille Hour Vision, which was discontinued many years ago. Both watches share the same Art Deco lug design, highlighting the watch’s movement through transparent surfaces on elements usually reserved for solid materials.
Where the Omega displayed the movement on the caseback and the sides of the case through sapphire, the Hamilton does so with a partially skeletonized dial. This makes the Hamilton a wonderful value, for no other offerings within this price point offer the same level of design and detail as the discontinued Omega.
The only downside of the new Jazzmaster is that it has not caught up with the rest of Hamilton’s lineup regarding the bracelet. Though the build, fit, and finish of the bracelet are up to par with the rest of the catalog, the use of the pin and collar system instead of screws is frustratingly antiquated. Granted, most people who buy this watch will have their jeweler size it once and never size it again, however this still makes changing straps more difficult. A bracelet system that uses screws allows you to separate both ends of the bracelet to have easier and unobstructed access to the spring bars – thus resulting in easier strap changes. Besides this, the bracelet is incredibly comfortable, for the five-link system articulates fully and does not grab onto one’s hair on one’s wrists.
Both new releases are available with brown leather straps, along with a new white dial. The burgundy dial can be optioned with what Hamilton calls a “smoky” brown color that darkens near the edges.
Hamilton also offers the Jazzmaster Open-Heart in a 36mm case size, which may be best suited for average to smaller wrist sizes, regardless of gender. The more vintage case size and the Art Deco styling may be better suited for your taste. We advise trying both at an authorized dealer if you have veered towards sub-38m watches.
Final Thoughts
The Jazzmaster Open-Heart is a beautiful option for those with more classical tastes yet demands modern features such as an 80-hour power reserve, a reliable 50m of water resistance, and a warranty. Furthermore, if one were to cover the Hamilton logos on the dial and the signed crown, it would be easy to mistake this watch for one that should easily be five times the price. If you are in the market for a watch with an exciting case design that separates itself from every other watch, try the Jazzmaster Open-Heart. We highly recommend it.
Check out more Hamilton reviews at The Watch Clicker here
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